Fences that
hold their line
Ipe, redwood, cedar, wrought iron, vinyl and welded mesh — installed so the rails stay level, the posts stay plumb and the run still looks straight in ten years.
22 years
Same owner, same crew, since 2004
CSLB 952680
Licensed, bonded and insured
UL 325
Tested to ASTM F2200 at handover
Permits
LADBS & HOA review handled
Most fence failures are post failures
A fence is only as good as what is under the ground. Posts go in concrete, below the frost-free depth that matters far less here than drainage does — in LA the killer is water sitting around the post base in a wet winter, then baking out in summer. We set posts so water drains away from them rather than pooling.
On grade, panels step with the slope and the rails stay level. Raking a panel to follow the hill is faster and cheaper, and it always looks wrong from the street — the top line wanders while every other horizontal on the property stays true.
How we quote a linear run
We walk the full run rather than pricing off a satellite image. Linear footage matters less than what is actually along it — an existing retaining wall, a slope that needs stepped panels, a sprinkler line that will get cut if nobody flags it first, or a property line that has never actually been surveyed.
Where the property line is not obviously marked, we will say so rather than fence to an assumption. A fence built a foot onto a neighbour’s side becomes their problem to solve and yours to pay for twice.
Post spacing changes with material and wind exposure
Six to eight feet on centre is typical, but that number moves with the material and the site. A solid vinyl or hardwood privacy panel on an exposed ridge gets tighter spacing than the same panel in a sheltered yard, because the wind load on a solid face between two posts is what actually determines how far apart they can safely sit.
Chain link and open picket profiles tolerate wider spacing because wind passes through rather than loading the panel. We set spacing to the specific run, not to a standard number applied everywhere.
What a fence permit does and does not cover
Height above the code limit — generally six feet in a rear yard, lower at the front setback — is what triggers a permit for a fence, along with any pool barrier regardless of height. Property-line surveys are a separate matter entirely: the permit does not confirm where your line actually is, and neither do we without a surveyor’s input if there is any doubt.
Corner lots carry an additional sight-line restriction near the intersection, which limits fence height and solidity in that specific zone even if the rest of the run is well within code. We check this before quoting a corner property, not after a job gets flagged at inspection.
Matching an existing run, or starting from scratch
Where a neighbour’s fence sets the tone for the block, we will photograph and measure it and quote the closest current material — assuming the profile is still made. Discontinued stock is common enough in older neighbourhoods that we would rather tell you plainly than fit something that reads as almost-matching from the street.
Where there is nothing to match, the decision is really about the front of the property versus everywhere else: the frontage is what a visitor sees first, and it is usually worth the better material even where the side and back boundaries run in something cheaper.
The gate is part of the fence, not an afterthought
A pedestrian gate hung on fence-grade hardware sags within a year regardless of how good the fence panels either side of it are — the gate is the one part of the run that moves, and it needs its own post, its own hinge spec and usually its own hardware budget separate from the fencing per foot.
We price gates as a line item rather than folding them into a blended per-foot rate, so you can see what the opening itself is actually costing against the fence around it.
What we build in
- 01
Hardwood
Ipe, mahogany and redwood. The premium option — dense, stable, and the only woods we will run as wide horizontal slats without expecting movement.
- 02
Cedar & pine
The value option, and perfectly good when detailed properly. Shorter life than ipe, lower cost per foot, and it takes stain well.
- 03
Wrought iron
Where you want security without losing the view. Galvanised before powder coat on coastal jobs, core-drilled into stucco pilasters where there are any.
- 04
Vinyl & mesh
Vinyl for low-maintenance privacy, welded hog wire in a wood frame where you want a boundary that does not block the garden.
Fence installation we have built
-
Welded Mesh in Redwood Frame -
Cedar, Pool Side -
Iron into Stucco Pilasters -
Ipe on Concrete Base -
Dark Stain, Tight Reveal -
Redwood Dog-Ear -
Hog Wire Deck Railing -
Lit Numerals in the Run
What decides the detail
- Grade
- Hillside runs get stepped panels on level rails. Raking a panel to follow the slope is quicker and always looks wrong from the street.
- Salt
- Coastal Santa Monica gets hot-dip galvanised substrate under the powder coat. Inland Encino does not need it, and charging for it there would be dishonest.
- Code
- Pool barriers are set by code, not preference: no climbable horizontal on the inside face, self-closing and self-latching leaf, latch height fixed.
Questions we get asked
- How long does a fence installation take?
- A straightforward residential run is two to four days once materials are on site: a day to set posts, then a curing gap, then panels and gates. Hillside work, hardwood and anything needing a permit runs longer. We give you the real sequence at quote, not a single optimistic number.
- How much fence can I get for my budget?
- Material drives it more than length. Cedar is the value end, redwood sits in the middle, ipe and mahogany are roughly three times cedar per foot but last several times as long. We quote two or three material options on the same layout so you can see the trade rather than guess at it.
- Do you handle sloped and hillside yards?
- Yes, and it is most of what we do in Studio City, Bel Air and the canyons. Panels step with the grade while rails stay level. It costs more than raking panels to follow the slope, and it is the only way the finished run reads straight from the street.
- Will you match my neighbour’s existing fence?
- Usually, if the profile is still available. We photograph and measure the existing run on the site visit, then quote the closest current material. Older stock is sometimes discontinued, in which case we will tell you plainly rather than fitting something that reads as almost-matching.
Other things we build
Wood fenceipe · mahogany · redwood · cedar
Vinyl fenceprivacy · semi-privacy · picket · ranch rail
Aluminum fenceflat-top · spear-top · horizontal slat · pool- Chain link fence9 ga commercial · 11½ ga residential
- Wrought iron fencesolid bar & square tube, welded
Driveway gatesslide · swing · cantilever · bi-fold
Electric gate openersslide · swing · cantilever
Where we build them
Ten neighbourhoods, one shop in Tarzana.
Get a real number
Tell us the length and layout for your fence, or the opening width for your gate, and we’ll tell you what it takes. Site visits are free inside the service area and take about forty minutes.
- Shop
- 18375 Ventura Blvd, #453, Tarzana, CA 91356
- Hours
- Mon–Sat 7:00–18:00
- Licence
- CSLB 952680